The Best Record Players of 2024

While streaming services are still the most popular way to listen to music, vinyl records—which can provide warmer, more authentic audio—are more popular now than at any point since the mid-1980s. Whether you’re looking to invest in an entry-level turntable or want to upgrade the aging relic that you’ve spun your vinyl collection on for years, we've tested some of the best record players on the market to help you choose. The mid-ranged options you’ll find in this guide not only provide a great listening experience but are also priced to leave enough cash in your wallet for some new records.

After months of research and testing, the Fluance RT82 (available at Amazon) proved to be the best record player for most people, due to its combination of great sound, excellent build quality, and solid value. If the RT82 is outside of your budget, the Crosley C6 (available on Amazon) is a good option. While it can't compete with the sound quality offered by our main pick, it comes packing a number of desirable features at a more affordable price.

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Other Record Players We Tested

How We Tested Record Players

The Tester

I’m Don Melanson, a longtime technology journalist, and vinyl enthusiast. While I grew up with cassettes and CDs, I’ve been making up for lost time, and have spent the past decade building up a record collection and piecing together a home audio setup that mostly consists of vintage gear, including turntables and amplifiers, that I have repaired and restored myself.

How We Chose What to Test

If you have already been shopping for turntables, you’ve probably quickly realized that there are a lot of options out there. To arrive at a manageable number of turntables to test for this guide, I set a price range of between $150 and $500. With this budget, it’s possible to find a solid mid-range turntable that’ll make most people happy and might even please some fledgling audiophiles.The trick is figuring out which turntables offer the best blend of features, build quality and sound, at a price that’s accessible to a wide number of people. Aside from relying on my years of experience testing and using audio gear, I also looked to trusted publications like Wirecutter, CNET, and The Master Switch, as well as a number of enthusiast forums, to steer me in the direction of which consistently well-reviewed turntables I should call in for testing.

Some of the turntables in this guide place an emphasis on ease of setup and ease of use. Others boast additional features like USB and Bluetooth, while others focus solely on sound quality at the expense of any extraneous features. I looked to include budget-priced turntables in this guide—hardware that can be had for around $150. At lower prices, however, you can expect significant tradeoffs in features, audio quality and construction, often making a cheap turntable difficult to recommend. If you are looking to buy something on the cheap, you can get far more for your money with a used vintage turntable if you’re willing to put a bit of research into it.

The Tests

I set up each turntable as I would have if I had bought it for myself, placing it in the same position and connected to the same equipment that I use with my current personal turntable, including a Sansui AU-777 amplifier and Pioneer CS-88 speakers (both vintage but fully functioning). During testing, I played the same three records representing a range of genres on each turntable: Miles Davis’ Kind of Blue, Johnny Marr’s The Messenger, and Emmylou Harris’ Profile. Additionally, I also used each turntable to play a variety of other records over the course of hours of day-to-day listening.

Beyond sound quality, I judged how easy the turntables were to set up out of the box, how clear their instructions were, evaluated their overall build quality, and tested any additional features the turntables had, such as Bluetooth or USB recording. I also measured the speed of each turntable by eye with a printed strobe disc and with the RPM Speed & Wow app for Android. After performing these tests, I also placed each turntable close to a source of vibration (a speaker) to see if there were any major issues with using it in a less-than-ideal setup.

What You Should Know About Record Players

The overall quality of a turntable is determined by the sum of its parts. Each component significantly affects how a turntable sounds:

• The tone arm is a key part of the chain from the record to your speakers, and a good one that is properly set up is essential to ensure proper playback. They can be made of different materials like aluminum or carbon fiber, and can either house the cartridge directly or use a removable headshell that makes cartridge upgrades easier.
• The cartridge and stylus are what make direct contact with the record, and can have the biggest effect on sound of any component in your record player. You can replace the stylus on all turntables (and will have to occasionally), but not all turntables have upgradeable cartridges, which is something to consider if you think you might want a boost in sound quality in the future.
• The platter and plinth—the surface you rest your record on to play it and the base of your record player, respectively, affect how a turntable sounds. In both cases, heavier is generally better. In the case of the plinth, a base made of solid wood, or an engineered wood like MDF (as opposed to plastic), can better absorb vibrations, while a heavier platter can not only help with vibrations as well but provide more inertia for better speed consistency.

Upgrades

If you’re buying a new record player, upgrading it probably isn’t the first thing on your mind. This could change, however, a few years down the road if you start upgrading the rest of your stereo system. As such, choosing one with an upgradeable high-quality cartridge can be a good idea.

A turntable with a removable headshell makes cartridge upgrades easier, and will also let you easily switch back and forth between different cartridges to explore different sound signatures.

Depending on the turntable, you might also be able to upgrade the platter—usually from a metal to an acrylic one—which can improve sound as well, although to less of a degree than the cartridge.

Belt Drive or Direct Drive: Does it Matter?

Currently, two different turntable drives (the hardware that makes your platter and record spin around on the plinth) are used: Belt-Drive and Direct-Drive. Both get the job done, but their unique characteristics mean that you should put some thought into which technology best suits your needs before investing in a new turntable:

Belt Drive Turntable: The majority of new turntables are belt-driven, which means they rely on a rubber belt that’s attached to a motor to spin the platter. That’s generally considered to give them an edge in sound quality over direct-drive models, as the belt can absorb some of the vibrations from the turntable’s motor, which itself is isolated from the platter.

Direct-Drive Turntable: A direct-drive system, on the other hand simply means that the turntable’s platter is directly attached to the motor via the center spindle. That gives it more torque, so it can start up more quickly, and it also offers better speed accuracy and speed control, which is why they’re popular with DJs plying their trade-in clubs around the world. The trade-off is that the motor is less isolated as a result, which can lead to more noise and vibrations that can potentially be picked up by the cartridge and affect the sound.

Manual or Automatic (or Semi-Automatic): Both belt and direct drive can come in manual and automatic (or semi-automatic) varieties. Manual turntables are the most common and require that you position the needle at the start of a record yourself and pick it up once the side of the record you’re listening to plays through. Automatic turntables tend to be more common among lower-end models than in the mid-range or high-end ones. That’s because the added mechanism required for fully-automatic operation not only makes for more things that can fail but more things that can introduce noise and vibrations, which means that good automatic system that doesn’t make significant trade-offs will come with a steep price tag. A semi-automatic system will lift the tonearm at the end of a record but not position it at the beginning, which is a far simpler mechanism, and which can make for a good compromise if you’re looking for a bit more convenience without too much of an added cost.

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